Posted on June 1st 2005, Updated
June 1st, 2013, March 3rd, 2015 by ChrusherComix Studios
These are the rules and regulations for the Galletta’s Karting Club. Located in Oswego, NY, GKC is a go-kart racing club that specializes on racing as professionally as we can for as economically as possible. We developed a style of kart racing that is different, but no less competitive than any national karting organization. Our biggest difference is affordability. Our club is free to join and race in, and the only thing anybody pays for is gas and parts. We are the largest and longest-running dirt karting class in the local area, as we were founded in the early 1990s and our average feature is 45-Laps usually consisting of 10-15 karts, with a 200-Lap “Klassic” Championship at Summer’s end deciding an Annual Points Champion. We race homemade 1-Wheel-Drive racing karts that can race on professional karting tracks and backyard speedways alike. We have karts rebuilt from used racing chassis, used yard karts and some built from scratch. We have ONE class to ensure a true overall track champion, and not have several smaller classes of divisional champions with no clear winner. We race used 5hp Briggs Flathead motors fueled by pump gas, sped-up by hand-shaved heads, and regulated by stock Fun Power-type carburetors instead of expensive prefabricated 2-WD chassis powered by high-priced methanol-fueled motors. On our own backyard oval speedway, we turn clockwise with our top speeds approximately 45-50MPH. Although we all run in the same division, in addition to a minimum weight requirement, we have something unique to our inclusive class — a weight-to-power-allowance scale to allow heavier drivers more horsepower via stronger racing cams and more powerful gear ratios, a system proven to be successful as we have the tightest competition and most varied winner’s circle locally over the last few years. This is our rules page:
This chapter explains the Galletta’s weight rule which allows all weighted competitors to run the same class and one champion instead of several mini-classes and no overall champion. Bigger cams, power gears, and extras for heavier drivers. (2009-current)
This chapter explains the 1-wheel-drive setup that we use at Galletta’s, including the clutches, chains, gears, and tiresalong with the basic frame or chassis of the karts entered and raced at Galletta’s.
This chapter explains how that if you do not own your own kart to enter our races, you may use a Galletta’s Team Kart for a nominal ‘gas-and-parts’ fee. It is also free to watch our races, and just a nominal ‘tip’ donation to enter your own Galletta’s-compliant kart.
This chapter explains the essential (full-face helmets, full skin covering, neck braces, gloves) and the highly recommended (chest/elbow/knee/shin pads).
This chapter explains that we have NO charge at our not-for-profit, friends-and-family backyard speedway, so in order to race at it, you must sign a liability waiver that we have purchased from law firm. If you do not agree to it, the property owner will NOT allow you to race on the property. We are a track.
This chapter explains our basic racing rules, which for the most part, follow most tracks. However, as a friends-and-family track, we do take a friendlier stance and have some minor differences. We also have set flag rules that are close to most racing circuits on the planet, so please understand them, as they are possibly the basic and most fundamental rule of all racing. When people come and don’t understand these, they intellectually disqualify themselves from even attempting to race.
This chapter explains our unique point scoring system, which decides a true overall champion far better than just wins alone, and how we handicap our race starts to ensure the closest possible competition every single race.
REMEMBER: ALL RULES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE BASED ON THE WISHES OF ACTIVE DRIVERS, TRACK OFFICIALS, KART BUILDERS, AND MECHANICS IN THE CLUB. THEY CAN ALSO CHANGE BY WEEK TO WEEK, AS OUR CLUB IS SET TO MAKE THE RACING AS COMPETITIVE AS POSSIBLE AS AFFORDABLY AS POSSIBLE. ALWAYS ASK MATT STEVENS FIRST AND LAST, AS HE IS THE HEAD MECHANIC AND KNOWS THE MOST ABOUT THESE SPECIALIZED KARTS AND THE ENGINES ON THEM. YOU WILL NOT FIND ANYBODY ON EARTH WHO CAN SET THESE KINDS OF KARTS UP BETTER, SO COME TO HIM FIRST AND LAST FOR ADVICE. HE’LL MAKE YOU AS FAST OR FASTER THAN ANY OF HIS KARTS AND COMPETING FOR WINS ASAP. OR, DO IT YOURSELF AND GET LAPPED AND/OR BREAK DOWN. THAT’S ALWAYS WHAT HAPPENS.
Galletta’s Gas Stocker Karting Club’s Engine Rules:
(for the 2009 season-and-up; updated
We begin with our standard motor type from the early-1990s and up. The Briggs and Stratton Flathead L-Head, more often known as the Briggs & Stratton 5-horsepower engine. In racing circles, they are known as Raptor motors. From 1990s-to-2004, they were all box stock with no race enhancements and only maintenance work, but we have since allowed the following racing enhancements:
– Briggs & Stratton ‘New style’ 1990s-and-up style Flathead motor Box stock block. No porting or reinforcements allowed to the block without approval of all active regular Galletta’s karters or as described. You may go in every block and clean out the casting obstructions and imperfections out with a Dremel tool. Honing is allowed. Bores are allowed, (A) a bore for renewed life and (B) is approved by all regular competitors. No Galletta’s Team Karts have blocks altered in any other way. Obviously, overriding the governor is allowed. It’s essential in a race. You can do it yourself, but if you need help, see Matt, as he has prepared and/or tuned all motors in our club. And ask anybody – when Matt tunes your motor, you are going to fly and compete for wins that very day.
INTERNAL & EXTERNAL MOTOR PARTS:
CARBURETOR & GAS TANK:
– Briggs & Stratton Box Stock 1990s-and-up style carburetor and tank. This carburetor is also known as a “Fun Power” carb, and it is a most important staple of our club, as it is our “restrict plate” or speed regulator because they do not have adjustable jets. One and all are the same. The jet is box stock/standard and fixed. Absolutely ZERO alterations allowed unless a casting imperfection is found, whereas it can be ground/drilled to match your competitors’ (see Matt on how to do it and keep it spec, as he has worked on several dozen of them over the years and they are all equally fast). Drilled carbs are not allowed, and we have never had one person use them so please do not be the first. I mean, you could experiment if you are a heavier guy (over 250lbs. maybe?), but anybody less, just stick with what works for all of us. Raptor or other racing carbs are banned due to expense. (This rule makes for a VERY even race and saves you and all of us A LOT of money.) There will be NO exceptions to this rule unless you are over 250lbs. In this case, we will allow experimentation, as it is the best way to maintain speeds AND KEEP COSTS DOWN. If your carb does not work well, take it to Matt and see if he can fix it. If it does not work, then we will look into finding you one that does work, or show you how to fix it. Most “slow” stock Briggs 5hps are due to bad, clogged or miscast carbs. Let Matt help you in getting them to run with the field. Some may not want to race because of this reason (some people only trust their own work and others feel like someone’s always out to screw them – that’s NOT how we run). But this is how we keep prices down and speeds regulated. Therefore it is essential. These carbs are the only reason that we go 40-50MPH instead of 55-70MPH, AND it allows us to run 200 laps (around 27 miles) on one tank of pump gas on our home track. You may think that getting a few extra MPH on a small track is cool, but we laugh when the methanol burns out after 5-30 laps and we can go on without a refuel for OVER a couple hundred laps on the standard, stock tank. Beat that!
– Rods must be:
– (a) Box-Stock with vinyl dippers, OR
– (b) a Briggs & Stratton Raptor III Rod (for durability/engine safety) are allowed. Box-Stock oil dippers are banned due to durability issues.
– (c) All drivers may now use a billet rod. In fact, they are recommended.
– Anything else must be explained and approved by all active regular drivers and kart owners.
– Briggs & Stratton box stock coil. No Galletta’s team karts contain hot coils that we know of, nor has anyone ever tried a different one that we know of. Anything else must be explained and approved by all active regular drivers and kart owners. If you don’t know, it probably is a stock, so we’ll allow it.
– We have no set rules on sparkplugs. Standard Briggs work well. We have sampled many and found mixed results — some have longer life, some burn out fast, some misfire — so ask all of our racers for what kinds work the best.
– We have no set rule against flywheels, but our preferred one is a Briggs & Stratton box stock 5hp flywheel. No Galletta’s team karts have 3-4hp flywheels that we know of. As all parts, anything else must be explained and approved by all active regular drivers and kart owners. If you don’t know, it probably is a stock, so we’ll allow it.
– Briggs & Stratton box stock crankshaft allowed. Single or dual bearing allowed. Most of our Galletta’s Team Karts are standard, no bearings, but some of the motors are single-bearing, some dual-bearing. We have no set rule against it, as it doesn’t increase speed, just increases life of the motor. We have no ruling for or against crankshaft types, but all changes must be explained and approved by all active regular drivers and kart owners. If you don’t know, it probably is stock, so we’ll allow it. The bearing motors are just more expensive, but we’ve never seen evidence of any speed differences, so we have no rule on it.
– Briggs & Stratton Piston allowed. Pistons/rings should be box stock standard. Boring/replacements allowed after excessive wear. (.10, .20. .30 are only allowed as the motor wears, as each motor has a life cycle.) We have no firm rules in this department, but no secrets; all changes must be explained and approved by all active regular drivers and kart owners. If you don’t know, let Matt check it, but it probably is a stock, so we’ll allow it.
Heads must start as a Briggs & Stratton box stock 5hp or 4hp head, and?
– (A) Head may be shaved for extra horsepower. All Galletta’s Karts have hand-shaved heads via sandpaper and drills, shaving it very deep and porting the head. We allow this because it is an exceedingly cheap way to increase horsepower. Professionally machined heads are discouraged due to cost, but they are not illegal. Matt will assist all head shaves for free, or do one exactly the same as all 12+ Galletta’s Team Karts and visitors if you pay him for his labor. As with all things in our racing club, if you try something different, you must have it approved by all regular drivers, but we’ll probably allow it. We don’t cheat in our club. That is rule one. That’s also who we have so many different winners. We race fair, friendly, and always have nothing but fun!
– (A) Briggs & Stratton Box stock air breathers. Drilled air holes allowed.
– (B) Racing breathers discouraged for drivers under 200 lbs.. No Galletta’s team karts have them. You may use them if nobody else minds, but we do not enforce or ban any. We just think of them as cheaper to go with the stock ones, so we make them the staple.
– (C) 2010 update: They now sell “Fun Power” Air filters in karting supply places, which are legal if you wish to have one, especially drivers over 200 lbs., where we encourage heavier drivers anything to help.
Governor / Throttle Cable Options:
– Option #1: Galletta’s Preferred – Matt’s favorite option for all of our Galletta’s team karts is the simplest. Just remove the factory governor spring (in between the gas tank lower bracket and the block) and replace it with a stronger spring. It may be tricky to find one the perfect size (sometimes you have to cut & bend your own) and strength – not too weak (If the spring is strong enough, the plastic governor mechanism can’t slow the motor down) and not too strong (can break the cable if so) – but once you do, it seems like the best way. He personally believes it’s better than the way the high-end cost racing karts because he feels that your range of gas depending on how far you step on the gas is better. Other options are available, such as removing the governor completely and hooking it direct and such, but we just find this way the best ourselves.
– Cams and weight ratios:
All of the “Arrive-and-drive” Galletta’s-type karts are around the same weight, but some are slightly heavier than others. We usually put lighter drivers in heavier ones and vice versa. For lighter drivers, we put weight on them to get them to our standard weight ranges, seen below. We also handicap heavier drivers with certain race cams. Now, all cams must be “NON-SLAPPER” Cams. We can order and install them in person to ensure we are all agreeing to the same rules. We use approximate weights because a lbs. or two doesn’t decide the outcome of a go-kart race, but 10-20 lbs. does make a difference. We use loose weights based on a driver’s weight, karter’s weight, and cam/header/gear combos. Mixing and matching has been experimental between 2007-2009, but we feel as if we have devised an excellent system here that breeds excellent competition, as proven by our varied wins list in the last few seasons. Cams that are currently in use and for weight bracket are:
– (A) Briggs & Stratton Box stock cam allowed for drivers between approx. 100-165 lbs.
– (B) Briggs & Stratton Box stock Raptor Cam allowed for drivers between 165-200 lbs.
– (C) Dyno 94-SS “hot stocker” cam is allowed for drivers between approx. 165-220 lbs.
– (D) Dyno 98-3 cam is allowed for our heavier drivers over approx. 215-250 lbs.
– (E) Dyno 03-SS cam is allowed for our heavier drivers over approx. 225-275 lbs.
– (F) For drivers around 220 lbs.-and-up, see Matt, you can have a bigger cam/gear with approval.
2011-15 update: Matt has allowed different sorts of cams on a person-to-person basis. Most of the time, drivers at the 200 lbs. and under can compete without issue (and all of our winners have been at all kinds of weights between 110 and 250 lbs.!), but when drivers surpass 230 lbs, they do require more horsepower to compete. The rules are discussed with Matt on a person-to-person basis and voted upon via all active club drivers.
Our rules are flexible and we often give more power to visiting drivers than we have ourselves. We are open to more cams, as long as we all know what they are. We do experiment with drivers that are so heavy that they cannot compete with the others. If you weigh less than are 200 lbs., you likely will need nothing more than a Dyno 94-SS cam and a minimum driver weight of 165 lbs. Anything else must be explained and approved by a majority vote of active Galletta’s drivers and must be explained to all active regular drivers and kart owners, and if approved via a vote of ALL active drivers and kart owners, possibly tested, and if approved, then then implemented into the rules. If your cam is a “slapper” cam that needs block reinforcement, then you use at at your own risk and we would consider it illegal unless you are a super-heavy driver (over say 275 lbs. or so). Our club is flexible and with this power-to-weight system, our racing is inclusive and more competitive than ever. We don’t like 5-10 classes of 1-8 karts (boring and not much competition!), we prefer 1 class of 10-20 karts (FUN and TRUE competition!). That’s real racing, and our rules allow for that. This is why we don’t have silly multiple classes of 1-5 kart races. Honestly… do you think that is fun for spectators or even good competition?
– DRIVE SYSTEM: Classic “Yard Kart” motor setup is preferred. This includes the motor mount on left-rear, single-wheel drive preferred. Karts should be staggered to run clockwise (right-hand turns) on a dirt oval track. We do this at Galletta’s because our track is slightly more downhill turning left than turning left, but a different kart class could turn left if they have multiple karts and if so desired. Live axles are not banned, and would be allowed, but discouraged because they are unnecessary under Galletta’s Club “clockwise” right-turn rules (We don’t ban live axles, but we turn the other way so we don’t need them, and they actually may even hurt you when you turn the other way). They weigh more, and are unnecessary in our clockwise-turn racing league. We, in fact, have tried them and it is very difficult to set them up on our track and have it keep up with the direct, 1-wheel-drive system. In general, we prefer heavier driver/kart combos to have lower gearing. Here are some flexible, but general standards we go by:
10-tooth Max-torque, Comet, or equivalent “Yard Kart” style clutches in the $30-50 range are accepted. Last for around a full year, sometimes even more. Costly racing clutches are illegal at every Galletta’s event!!! You want them? Race WKA class. All Galletta’s Team Karts are “Tractor Supply Special” clutches. They are cheap and equal. Anything else must be explained and approved by all active regular drivers and kart owners.
2011-up UPDATE: Different clutches are now allowed, but must be approved by head mechanic Matt Stevens and agreed to by a majority vote of all club drivers. Usually, however, the super-expensive race clutches are barred for cost reasons, but may be allowed for drivers who surpass 250 lbs..
– 40/41 Chain has proven to be the strongest, most durable chain for our races. . Since adopting the 40/41 in the mid 2000s, we rarely have any problems with broken chains (people who raced with us before the mid 2000s may remember our constant chain problems. Those days are all over. We do allow race chains, particularly for higher-geared karts for drivers weighing in excess of 220 lbs. (See Matt for details if you are a heavy). We now allow race chains, but must be approved by head mechanic Matt Stevens and agreed to by a majority vote of all club drivers.
The drive wheel setup rule is also obsolete, we’ve now gone over to 35 racing chain and 35 split-racing sprocket. – 35 chain is now perfectly acceptable: For years, we stuck to 40/41, because in the past, racing chain or other smaller gauge chains sometimes did not work on our “backyard speedway” in the past. However, we have begun using them more in in 2010-11, and have found them to be durable enough to use, particularly 35 Space Chain.
– 60-tooth wheel sprocket allowed, especially for lighter guys. Reinforcements to be made stronger are allowed. This is our ideal gearing on Galletta’s and we prefer to keep this gearing on “away” tracks in order to keep everything equal and avoid constantly switching gears on 5-15 karts once or twice per week. Gear ratios can be changed, but if so, it must be explained and approved by all active regular drivers and kart owners. We do allow different gears for drivers weighing in excess of 220 lbs. (See Matt for details if you are a heavy).
As a general rule, headers (racing pipes) are not allowed for drivers under 190-200 lbs. As a progressive rule, the heavier a driver is, the larger a header they are allowed to use. Also, one should have a muffler on any header to avoid noise pollution. Also, no sharp edges. We are in a fairly rural area surrounded by woodland and fields, but we’d like to keep things as quiet as we can regardless. In general:
– (a) Briggs & Stratton Box-Stock “Fun Power” type mufflers are required for all drivers below meet the weight (100-130 lbs.).
– (b) Racing Headers/Pipes allowed for drivers over the medium weight and cannot meet it (in excess of 130 lbs.).
– (c) HIGHLY RECOMMENDED to have a muffler on the end to avoid noise pollution and is required for us and any track we race at. This is a MUST.
All karts must run PUMP GAS. Galletta’s Team karts all use and highly recommend 93 Octane. No additional additives are allowed, and will be disqualified unless approved before the race by all other drivers in the same race at that time. If you want to race methanol or spike your fuel (which we can usually smell it), go race another class or get all of the active drivers to agree to allow it.
2010 UPDATE ON METHANOL: Will be allowed. However, you will not count in our points or wins. For that, you must have pump gasoline.
Our chassis are mostly homemade from scratch. Some are rebuilt from yard karts, while some are rebuilt from racing karts. Galletta’s started in the early 1990s when Matt took his used 1980s Manco Yard Kart and Chris took his former 1980s Thunder Island Kart and they began racing in the backyard behind Galletta’s Greenhouse. Both karts were 1-Wheel-Drive, which separates them from 2-Wheel Drive “Live Axles” of most racing kart series. Initially we races counterclockwise (left-turn) like most other racing circuits around the world. However, we discovered that the 1-WD turns superior when turning right (racing clockwise). Mixed with the inclines backyard at Galletta’s, we discovered that the speeds were quicker, cornering was improved and the motors were less stressed racing clockwise. We have taken a lot of ribbing from somewhat red-necked and often dimwitted “racers only turns left, dude!”-type people, to which we ask, “then what is Grand Prix/road course racing?” Racing is racing, and real racers can turn left or right. To use our right-turn style against us exposes an incomplete driving ability to us, but mock all you want. Our chassis have more clearance than racing karts and can race on both pay tracks and backyard tracks.
We have no 100% tire specs other than they must be slicks. Our track is a somewhat loose clay and soil mix, so you can use racing kart tires, quarter midget tires, yard kart tires, lawnmower tires of any company… whatever you can use that will work for your kart and not dig up the track is OK. Most of our karts have used racing kart tires and some yard kart tires. However, we DO have rules against treaded or spiked tires, especially on our drive-wheel.
The drivewheel (left-rear) ABSOLUTELY MUST be a slick. The left front also MUST be a slick. The right side tires should also be slicks, but light tread will be allowed only if you cannot afford to change them over or if you have severe handling issues without light tread. You must change them over during the season, as we do not allow them anymore. We have and use a definite stagger, and basic wheel sizes are covered on this webpage, but is subject to change. We now use “used” racing slicks in most cases. All tires must be approved by head mechanic Matt Stevens and agreed to by acctive club drivers.
– Weights: See the “Cams” section above. We have a minimum weight rule in 2009 now that we have banned OHV 6.5hp-appearing Animal “Outlaw” motors from our class [Before the classes were separated, we could not penalize smaller motors with weight, as it was the only way to compete against the larger motors]. Without them, we can now institute a minimum weight to help heavier drivers. This weight will be determined before the first race of the Galletta’s Karting season (which will be the first weekend in June.) We now securely weigh the lighter kart/driver combos down. Weight will be based on driver + kart combined, and will likely be around 340-350 lbs., with anyone over that to be allowed extras (such as headers or other vote-approved bonuses). Only 2 active drivers are over 350 lbs., so we are looking at that weight and help for the heavier ones. As usual, weights of driver and kart must be approved by head mechanic Matt Stevens and agreed to by acctive club drivers.
– Inspections: In nearly 20 years of our racing history, we’ve never had one person accuse another of cheating at Galletta’s nor ever had to disqualify anybody from a win or a finish over a motor dispute. The great thing about racing with friends and family is that honesty and sportsmanship keeps everybody fair, legal, and fun – something our club prides itself on. We all help each other out and often buy each others parts and help them install them, so we’re all the same, all very close in speed and we know it. (The only disputes were when people brought different, bigger motors, which are banned to keep everybody on the same page. Any kart divisions will be split by motor type, unlike how a silly little track manager forced it and tried it on a local pay track.) Hence, we have never needed a tech inspector once in our history. However, if anybody feels that someone is cheating or illegal, then the entire club can request a motor to be inspected after a race. Under Galletta’s Kart Club rules, our motors can largely be tech-inspected from the outside (carb), but can be opened if enough people believe something illegal is going on. As far as the racing is concerned, the only time a motor needs to be inspected or challenged for legality, it is a motor that easily dominates the competition so badly that the race does not seem fair. 99.999% of the time this isn’t the case, because our karts and races are often very close, the most experienced drivers finishing a little better than the lesser experienced drivers, and with the handicap starts it is just so close and competitive that everybody who races in the club is almost always having fun (only a rookie or two that don’t understand the track or the way that the karts handle will occasionally think we’re cheating, but if they simply get seat time they realize that this isn’t the case, they drop it – as we are all VERY close. It just takes experience). With the 2009 weight rule, this should be even more apparent, and with the power-to-weight scale enacted in the 2009 season and further clarified in the 2010 season, our races are closer than ever with more winners and closer point standings than ever before. Try it!
In the end, a Galletta-type 1-WD Gas Stocker Racing Kart typically costs $300-700 total, and is more affordable and durable than all other forms of racing, including other brands of kart racing, such as clone or WKA/NKA classes. You may build your own or rent one of our team karts to race on local tracks. These karts reach speeds of around 40-45mph on our Galletta’s track, although on shorter tracks they will produce slower speeds. Still, they are nearly as fast, are more durable than, and can race more laps than a WKA/NKA type methanol kart, and all for a for a small fraction of the cost. Read on:
Rental/usage/gas and entrance fees for Galletta’s Team Karts and Speedway:
Entrance/Gate fees – There are NONE:
There is NO charge for watching or racing at Galletta’s Kart Club Backyard Speedway. It is a private, non-profit, friends-and-family, recreational-use, for-fun backyard track with approximately 85-yard long straights and 25-degree banked corners with a clay surface that operates under NY State Recreational Use Statute. You are racing at your own risk, and we charge no money for entering our property, nor driving a kart on our track, nor for a spectator to watch a race. Since we are not a business and only friends and family race here, you should be invited by family or friends of drivers, or request to join our club. You must have permission from the landowner and display that you can operate a kart safely to active club members. You must also understand that there is some danger, that you may get hurt, and by setting foot on our property to view or enter a race means that you understand and assume risk of injury and that you will not sue the property owners if you are hurt on or near our property no matter how. First-time-drivers must prove that their kart is safe, and that their driving ability is competent and not reckless. The landowner and karting club members reserves the right to refuse someone from being on her property if he or she feels that the person is being unsafe or doing an illegal activity. Though you will not be charged to race your own kart on our backyard speedway, you are free to donate a minimal “thank you” tip to Matt Stevens for his work maintaining a track for no pay and just for friends and family to have fun on. For drivers bringing your own kart, a $3-5 tip (or things we can use on the track or karts) to Matt for his work on the track is highly suggested.
Borrowing a Kart from Team Galletta’s for a race:
Galletta’s has a stable of 12 equally setup karts with equal motors. Anywhere from 2-4 of them are used by Galletta’s founders, the “Home team” of Matt, Chris, Wesley, and Melissa Stevens. The rest are their backup team karts, which are available to be borrowed at Galletta’s or rented on any race track that we may travel to. We do this not to make profit, but to get people who do not own their own karts into racing with us on local tracks. To borrow any of these backup karts, you are asked offer a donation to Matt Stevens to pay for the parts and the gas. This is known as a “kart use donation.” The donation is a nominal, non-profit one… it simply covers the fuel, the go-kart maintenance, engine wear, a tip for track maintenance, and part replacement. By using these karts, you agree to use these karts under your own risk, your own insurance, and you sign a waiver agreeing that you will not bring a lawsuit against the landowner or the kart owner if injured. We offer no insurance, as we charge no fees and this is a friendly, not-for-profit, recreational race in our own backyard. If you do not own a kart, then you probably have no idea how expensive it is to maintain 12 karts like we do at Galletta’s. If you do own your own kart, you realize that we are insanely affordable and generous in allowing people to use our karts for a nominal donation, and that more often than not, we don’t even cover the cost and lose money every year offering our backup karts to everyone. But we do it for the joy of racing with 10-15 karts per race all summer, every summer with friends and family. All Galletta’s Team Karts have equal motors and have won races with an experienced driver at the helm. Matt and/or Chris have won in all of them, as have many visitors over the years. The more races you run, the more experience you get, then the better you will be. You run 1-6 races, you probably will finish in the back. Race for 10-15 races, you may be a middle-runner. Usually if you race 20-30 or more races, and you’ll probably finish right up in the front and score some hard-earned wins, like those seen in our All-Time Wins List. Some learning curves are slower than others, but if you race long enough and learn enough, you will earn your wins just like most of the regular drivers in our all-time points list. Try it!
Like we stated above, we have no fees. But the karts do need mainetence and cgas money. This nominal donation fee covers parts, gas, and maintenance of karts and track. If the kart breaks, that’s what the fee collectively pays for. Often, if a driver donates $20-30 and uses $5 gas and wears out or breaks $40-50 in parts, then who pays for that? It’s a collective donation that pays for all karts to be kept available and race-ready. These karts are fast and there is a potential for injury, so you must sign a waiver if you use them. If you are proving to be a hazard to yourself, the karts or to others with the kart, you will lose your ride. These are NOT bumper karts (go to an amusement park if you want them). These are not Kiddie Kartway Bumper-Karts that race at local tracks with full body paneling. These are OPEN WHEEL karts. You can race hard, but drive carefully and respectfully of all fellow competitors and equiptment. From June through October, Matt spends SEVERAL UNPAID HOURS PER DAY working on these karts and track. Nominal donations has not and likely will not ever cover the amount of time, energy, and money he spends on these races. He does it for the fun of it and to have buddies to race against. He’s been doing this since the early 1990s. No track operator or track in the world does what Matt does. Period. Find one and you can race free for a year. You won’t.
[Updated for the 2012 Season]
Rent a kart: The “Classic (or Klassic) Championship race” is 2 time-trails and has been between 80-200 laps and held every late-September (usually the 3rd Saturday in September with Sunday as a rain date. Every year has added more laps, but the peak will be 200.). The fees will be posted at a later date based on amount of laps we are scheduled to run, but Matthew makes them in proportion to the laps run. For example, the fee for the 2008 Klassic was a $40 donation for 200 laps, which is RIDICULOUSLY CHEAP, and should be MUCH more (go to any race track anywhere and try to get the same… they’ll laugh in your face and say either we don’t exist or we’re nuts). This is a nominal, parts-and-gas donation. The Klassic also has special refueling rules (One is only allowed to refuel after a certain stage of the race depending on laps ran, and varies year to year). This is a nominal, parts-and-gas donation. The Klassic also has special refueling rules (One is only allowed to refuel after a certain stage of the race depending on laps ran, and varies year to year).
Renting a Galletta’s kart at an “Away” track:
– It must be a Galletta’s Kart Club event, with other members of the Galletta’s Kart Club also in attendance, and you must pay separate pit-pass/race entry/gate fees to the speedway’s owners.
-If you can assist us in trucking the Kart between Galletta’s and the other karting track, you may rent one of our karts for $5 for a veteran Galletta’s Club member, $10 for a 1st-time driver.
– If you cannot assist us in trucking the kart to an away track, then the kart rental will be flexible and dependent on the distance traveled and the length of the race.
– You must obey all track officials and pay all entrance and insurance fees of the host track SEPARATE from our kart rentals if you use our karts on another track. These karts are fast and there is a potential for injury, so you must sign a waiver if you use them. If you are proving to be a hazard to yourself or to others with the kart, may lose your ride. We will race on any away track in the Central New York/Oswego County area where we have enough interested drivers and the track allows us our own motor class, so contact us about it.
– Note: Some people have been calling certain homemade karts “Galletta’s karts” at non-Galletta’s races at certain local tracks, and this would be a misnomer. Ironically enough, when we raced at one local pay track, they refused to acknowledge the name Galletta’s (our sponsor and host of our club) and for some reason they never wanted to call us Galletta’s (calling us at first “Yard karts” and then “gas stockers”) until our class was removed from their weekly card, and then suddenly every homemade kart was called a “gaylettas” which is highly insulting. Please be mindful that to be called a Galletta’s-kart, it must be a 1-WD gas stock flathead that is set up to turn right, and motor tuned by co-founder Matt Stevens, the winningest driver of all Oswego-area karting classes, methanol or gas. Also, it is not a Galletta’s race unless one of the Galletta’s Karting Club founders is in the race or at the event scoring it it (Matt and Chris Stevens). So please do not disparage our club and demean our racers when random failed/ex-Galletta’s racers show up and try to race with you. Unless we are there, it isn’t a Galletta’s race and it is not to be acknowledged as one. On the reverse, as a note to methanol or clone drivers who have never raced in our club and mock it with weak nicknames that attack the name of our family and small business: Try it. You may learn a few things. In fact, we guarantee it. It’s harder to win at Galletta’s than it is in most karting classes because we are all so close and the cofounders have over 20 full years experience karting. Try it before you open your mouth. Nobody has ever beat Matt and Chris at a point series, and many get so frustrated at failing that they either try other classes or give up racing entirely. Those that have raced with us regularly at any time have nothing bad to say about the racing skills and difficulty level of competing at a Galletta’s race.
We also allow partial-ownership of karts with our kart club. Meaning, you can put your own motor on one of our rented chassis. Or rent one of our motors for your chassis. Or any combination of tires or parts for the kart to ensure that a particular kart be open for you the entire racing season. You may also bring extra karts and rent them out at our track and club events. We are always inclusive and invite any and all people to race with us. The more, the merrier – just race clean and safe.
Safety: All people wishing to race MUST wear:
MANDATORY SAFETY WEAR:
(1) A helmet [full-face protection; a clear shield or protective goggles; DOT motorcycle helmets, ATV dirt motocross helmets, race car helmets are all acceptable. If you do not have your own, we can arrange for you to borrow one of ours.].
(2) Long sleeves, long pant legs, and gloves (preferably jeans, a jacket, thick sweatshirt made of a tough material, or racing fire suit, etc. – no muscle shirts, shorts, or T-shirts with too much exposed skin are allowed). If zero skin is exposed, then this is ideal for safety purposes. Exposed skin is NOT allowed.
(3) A neck brace. Now mandatory. We can arrange for you to borrow one of ours or buy one of your own if you do not have one.
That much is absolutely mandatory.
(4) Additionally HIGHLY recommended is extra protective padding, such as chest pads, knee or shin pads, a cup, elbow pads, motorcycle and/or motocross protective wear, etc…
Most people race without any injuries whatsoever. In 20+ years of the track holding races, there has never been one severe injury, and only two hospitalizations (a few broken ribs and shoulderblade in 2006 and a badly cut finger in 2005), thank God. On rare occasions, accidents can cause small scrapes and/or bruises, and with these said materials and safe/smart driving, the said injuries will be kept minimal to nonexistent. It is possible to break a bone, as one person in our history has done, so be careful. If you obey all rules, wear adequate protection on your head, neck, hands, chest, elbows and knees, then you substantially reduce your chances of injury. Keep in mind that intentional or negligent driving is utterly illegal, and if you purposefully wreck another kart, or drive so terribly that your negligence causes potentially hazardous wrecks, then you will either be asked to sit out a few laps, or the entire race if it continues. This is to keep injuries to a minimum. The only times we’ve ever had injuries is when people broke our rules. These rules will be enforced through the season, and as a race-at-your-own risk track that charges no money to race and operates only on gas-and-part donations, you should have your own insurance and wear adequate protective gear, as we will not be held responsible for your injuries under any circumstances.
REGARDLESS, FULL FACE HELMETS, NECK BRACES, AND PADDED OR ARMORED MOTORCYCLE/GO-KART PROTECTIVE GEAR IS ALL HIGHLY SUGGESTED AND IN FACT, RECOMMENDED BY ALL ACTIVE DIVERS AND THE PROPERTY OWNER!!! THE LIKELIHOOD OF INJURY IS DRASTICALLY REDUCED (IN BOTH CHANCE OF INJURY AND SEVERITY OF INJURY) WHEN PROPER SAFETY GEAR IS WORN! PLEASE WEAR THEM! BETTER TO BE SAFE THAN SORRY!
The rules for racing at the Galletta’s Karting Club & Yard Karting Speedway are quite simple. Most basic racing etiquette and rules are followed here as every track that we know of. Most racing rules and flag signals are the same on this track as every other and should be evident to most people who have spent any time watching racing on television or in person (But if a driver does not understand them, they MUST ask track officials or other drivers and cannot complain against a rule just because they didn’t know what it meant). However, first off, we are a nonprofit, recreational track only. It is simply for friends and family for FUN, and everyone who races on our track understands this and has signed the following waiver, witnessed by at least one of the owner/operators, and often times by several drivers and track officials. The waiver is reprinted here for anybody to view, and it is the very same waiver that every single driver here in Galletta’s Racing Points History has read and signed:
Chapter 6: Liability Waiver & NY State Recreational Use Law
This chapter explains that we have charge at our not-for-profit backyard speedway, and we allow people to use recreational vehicles on our property under the New York State Recreational Use Statute. However, on top of that, in order to race at it, you must sign a liability waiver that we have purchased from law firm. If you do not agree to it, wear safety gear and follow all rules, the property owner will NOT allow you to race.
Galletta’s Go-Kart Club & Backyard Speedway Racing Contract:
Galletta’s is simply a backyard recreational vehicle track. It is free to join, watch, and race in. We allow people (some friends, some family, some total strangers) to enjoy our property for no profit (and only nominal donations for maintenance are ever accepted). We — the property owner, spectators, or drivers — make absolutely NO profit, the track and karts are cared for by the racers and their donations, and no insurance or promise of safety is offered to anybody on the premises. Even though we have safety standards and do our best to keep our races friendly and safe, there is still a danger of being hurt, maimed or even killed at any time. However, underNew York State Recreational Use Statute, we allow people to use and watch recreational vehicles on the property under the understanding that all drivers understand the danger, wear safety gear, race at your own risk, and sign a liability waiver before climbing into a recreational vehicle for our not-for-profit, recreational vehicle activities. In addition, all spectators must stay clear of the racing premises when a vehicle is on it, and you watch the races at your own risk. If you wish for insurance, either use your own or inquire with Chris about seeking insurance (which would only be possible with several other people). We cannot allow anyone to race at our track until you have read, understand, and sign the following:
This track is a ride-at-your-own-risk, nonprofit racetrack for recreational purposes only. The landowner, Mary A. Stevens, allows speed-regulated go-karts to be operated on her property under New York State Recreational Use Statute, and charges no money for use of her land. By signing this contract, it reaffirms that we (the property/track owners/kart owners/officials) are not responsible or liable for any injuries sustained on the track that may occur while using go-karts on our residence. You will obey all laws, rules, and regulations instituted by the track officials, and drive as carefully as you can in order to not cause (or get into) accidents that could be otherwise avoided. The first and most important rule on this racetrack is to never intentionally hit another driver and do your very best to avoid contact that may cause an accident that may cause an injury or damage machinery. If a driver is vulnerable to be struck and injured by you and/or your vehicle, your #1 goal is to avoid hurting that person, even if it means driving off of the track or coming to a complete stop (you will not be penalized track position if this occurs unless you collide with a kart or other obstacle). If the track officials believe that you intentionally caused a wreck, the track officials reserve the right to disqualify you for that race, and possibly remove you from the racetrack and ban you from the property temporarily, indefinitely and/or permanently if you continue to rebel against the rules or break any laws. You agree that you cannot ever attempt to bring a lawsuit against the property owners or fellow racers no matter what kind of injury you may obtain on our property. We cannot and will not pay any hospital or doctor bills that you might obtain if you were to become injured. No one that you know can sue us in place of you because you agree that you are racing at your own risk, at no profit, and for recreational purposes only. All drivers should be over 18, and if you are not, this signature also affirms that a parent or legal guardian has granted you permission to race on this track and that said person also understands the ride-at-your-own-risk policy at this racetrack. If you wish for insurance, you must use your own, as the landowner has no gate or entry fees to provide it for you. We race karts under a friends/family basis only. This contract (that may exceed this page) also affirms that you will obey and respect all rules, regulations, and instructions set forth by the property owners/track officials (Matthew Joseph Stevens, Christopher John Stevens, Wesley James Stevens, Mary Ann Stevens, Rungnapha “Aou” Phengpataew Stevens, and Melissa Gabel Stevens). [Contract then says: Please legibly sign and print your name below, and the contract has been read, agreed to, and signed by every driver who has ever raced at our racetrack, as witnessed by all people there.] 2009 UPDATE: Above is our older waiver. We now have an updated waiver purchased from a law firm dealing with kart tracks, but our track operates under the same non-profit New York State Recreational Use Statute.
Basic, fundamental rules for our track & property:
NOTE: Any and all rules are subject to change, but only with approval of all of the owners and preferably a majority of the visiting drivers. All drivers and spectators at Galletta’s should read and understand these rules, as it would cut down the amount of arguments. This is a code of conduct that all people at Galletta’s are expected to follow. Overall, the basics are: Be friendly, be courteous, do not fight, do not wreck anybody (including yourself) and do not cheat to win (cheating means breaking any or all of the rules on this webpage).
Galletta’s Greenhouse Karting Club & Speedway Flags:
Flags are similar to those that most race tracks and race classes use and abide by. However, for subtle and exact meanings, consult the chart below.
1. NO FIGHTING/INTENTIONAL WRECKING AT ALL: You MUST be respectful to every driver, spectator, and/or track official at all times and not lose your temper, argue, or fight with anybody, driver, spectator, or official. If you have a dispute, settle it calmly, logically, and rationally without raising your voice, using excessive profanity, threatening to fight, or threatening to leave. If you argue with anybody on the track, you may be asked to leave unless you calm down and stop arguing. If you rebel against the race rules and the track officials that enforce them, you may lose your ride. If you irrationally argue, use excessive profanity, challenge to fight or actually fight anybody on the premises, whether it be owner, official, driver, or spectator; you will be asked to leave, and the police may be called if you fail to do so in a timely manner. The police WILL be called if you fight and/or destroy property on our premises, and you are not allowed to intentionally hit, throw, or damage the karts and/or property. Do not throw your helmet or anything, especially in the direction of another driver, spectator, or property. Also, be respectful and a good sportsman, especially with an audience present. If you win, do not celebrate excessively (that can be misconstrued as taunting – act like you know you can win and like you’ve done it before, with respect to your fellow competitors) and if you lose or feel that you’ve been screwed by another driver or decision; do not argue excessively, just protest sensibly and logically, but the lead officials (Matt and Chris) will have the final say, and they always insist that they will judge fairly and impartially by the rules. Matt and Chris occasionally delegate authority to other veteran drivers (vets get seniority as they know the ropes a little more), lap-counters, camera persons and flag people, but none have authority over Matt and Chris (Stevens, not Kris Pitsley, who is only a lap-counter/helper and no longer a rule enforcer – a privilege that she lost with continued screaming matches, fights and attempts at bending the scoring/restart rules to help her family or friends).
2. Do not wreck/spinout yourself or another driver: Do not wreck other yourself or other karts, intentionally or unintentionally. If you are driving recklessly, spin out, or cause an accident via overly-aggressively driving and creating any kind of contact that brings out the yellow flag, you will be placed at the rear of the field. Period. If you continue to drive in a manner that can potentially hurt yourself, other drivers, the racing surface, or the karts, you may lose your ride. Even if a wreck involving you is not necessarily your fault, if you are involved via contact of any kind that causes an accident, you must go to the rear. EXCEPTIONS:If you come to a complete stop and hit nothing to avoid a wreck, or drive off of the track and hit nothing to avoid a wreck, you will not be penalized and regain your position on the last completed lap. With open-wheel racing, even light wheel-to-wheel contact can cause an accident, and any accident can potentially damage the karts, the racing surface, and most importantly, injure you or other drivers. Hence, any risky activity is forbidden, and you must obey if found guilty of wrecking (tape will be reviewed if official is contested). You must give other drivers room, and you should only attempt a pass where you know you have enough room to make the pass without a collision, and where the driver you are passing SEES YOU AND KNOWS THAT YOU ARE THERE (usually when you show that driver a tire or a scream or you know he knows that you’re there). In most cases, unless the driver ahead is not holding a line and respecting a competing driver, an accident’s cause usually is the fault of the driver behind running into or spinning the driver in front or beside them, unless it is a spin or wreck that collects a driver behind because they had nowhere to go. Therefore, you must HOLD YOUR LINE. This means drive in a straight line around the track and do not cut off other competitors or push them off of the track; Do not zigzag across the track, ESPECIALLY when you are close to another competitor. This can cause a dangerous accident and you can be removed from the track if officials or owners catch you doing it once. If you are a lapped kart, you MUST stay to the extreme high or low groove of the track and do not impede the lead-lap karts from passing you. If you do, you will be disqualified and possibly either black-flagged or banned.
PENALTY FOR WRECKING OTHERS: If you are found guilty of pushing, spinning, and/or wrecking another driver (whether it be a purposeful or negligent action), then you must go to the rear of the field (of the lap that you are on). If you do not, then you can be penalized -5 to -10 points (for each offense depending on severity), or disqualified to last place (on the lap you are on) if found to be intentional. If found to be intentional and/or malicious, you may be banned from competition. So when you are directly involved in a wreck, you will go to last position. If the track officials miss what appears to be an intentional wreck or spin that causes a caution or damage to the karts and it goes unnoticed at the time but is caught on tape, you may be penalized points post-race when points are being tallied, but allowed to keep your final position. Light, straight bumper-to-bumper contact is allowed, ONLY if it does not cause a wreck. Light contact that does not force another kart off the track and that does no damage will not be penalized. However, if that contact causes a spin or wreck, both drivers must go to the back, with the kart that caused the wreck in back of the other. If it continues, you disqualify yourself from the race and especially if you are unrepentant for your actions, you must leave the racing surface indefinitely.
3. Excessive wrecking/spinout/caution rule: If you spinout or wreck more than two times per race, you may be penalized and/or banned/disqualified from the race or indefinitely. If you cause at least two cautions via wreck or spin, run at least 10 racing laps, and/or break any part on a go-kart, you will not be granted a refund, so do not ask. The fees cover gas, track, and kart maintenance, and most importantly, kart parts (if you own your own kart, then you know how expensive this can be). Allowed exception; A stalling kart that (1) simply does not run, (2) has absolutely no broken parts and (3) does not run for even the experienced owners, does not count under this rule. Under this exception, if (1) your kart does not run, (2) you complete less than 10 laps (this is counting completed green laps and ALSO cautions that YOU caused), and (3) there is absolutely no damage to the karts, then you may be partially refunded a fair amount after the race with a meeting with track officials and owners.
3b. Specialized Rookie & Novice wreck/spinout/caution rule:Due to continuous problems with rookie/novice drivers spinning out and wrecking at a ratio around 10-to-1 more than veterans, rookie drivers (most notably, those with under 10 races of experience) will be held to a strict law as follows:
1 spinout or wreck = Rear of field.
2 spinouts or wrecks = Sit in infield for 10 green laps & allowed to return at rear of field. No refunds unless you race less than 10 laps and cause no damage to the karts or track. Also, if you are driving a rental kart and have completed more than 10 laps, you must give up your ride if a top-10 point veteran driver requests it (but ONLY IF this driver owns it, has paid for it, or qualified it. This driver will then split the points with you).
3 spinouts or wrecks = Lose your ride with absolutely no refund unless the owners allow you to continue (and they can remove you at any time after your third incident). Also, if you are driving a rental kart and have completed more than 10 laps, you must give up your ride if a veteran driver in the top 10 of the points race requests it (but ONLY IF this driver owns it, has paid for it, or qualified it. This driver will then split the points with you).
Spinout/wreck/stall to avoid being lapped = Lose at least 1 lap and/or banned from the rest of the race.
Racing in a hazardous manner = If you can’t hold a line and keep up to speed (in other words, your driving causes anther driver to wreck), and/or obey any and all racing rules, then you can also be disqualified and/or removed from the race.
Again… all Galletta’s Team Karts have won races and can win races with an experienced driver at the helm. If you race 1-3 times, the chances of you competing for a win are slim to none. If you race regularly for a season or so, you can compete to win any given race. Experience is the key. Race and you’ll learn. Earn it, and don’t whine about motor size or that you can’t win in your first time ever in a kart. In our club races, they are all identical motors, and if you know what you are doing, you can and will win. Please understand, that if you are a rookie/novice, that it is better to drive in a slow but steady line for 40-100 laps then wreck/spin/stall yourself out in 10. Let off the gas and don’t be afraid to use the brake. The owners and multi-time champions (Matt and Chris) let off the gas and brake going into the turns, especially in traffic and in the 1st turn, so don’t think that flooring it through the turns and/or spinning/drifting your back end like a dirt modified will get you a win. It will slow you, potentially flip you, or get you a broken kart (usually your sprocket or chain), potentially collecting other karts in your accident, and everybody rolling their eyes (or worse) at you for wasting everybody’s gas and time. You cannot win and you will NOT get your money back if you do this, so don’t ask. Stick to it, learn the ropes, and you will eventually earn your wins and have FUN. That’s what our class is about. Money can’t buy you wins, but diligence and experience can!
3b2. Reckless rookies wanting their money back rule: If you wreck your kart, or cause other people to wreck and lose your ride due to broken parts or being a hazard in general (spinning out multiple times, negligence, not braking properly, ect.), and whether you leave on your own accord or lose your ride due to hazardous driving, you cannot request your money back just because you didn’t fully complete the race. These karts cost a lot of money to maintain, and we rent them out VERY cheap to anybody. The broken parts and the gas almost always add up to more than the rental fees that are given, and we almost never break even, and always wind up putting our own funds into the karts in just maintenance and gas alone. Good, experienced, careful-minded drivers usually can drive a kart for a whole season with very little in repair/maintenance costs; bad drivers demolish karts in less than one race and cause more damage and repair fees than a good driver will in a whole season, which makes it costly to rent. Therefore, if you only completed 10 laps out of a 40 lap race, but caused 80-90% of the cautions and accidents in that race putting yourself at risk in addition to others (gas, parks, and potentially health), why should you get your money back? The exceptions are if you run less than 10 laps AND a kart malfunctions completely due to no accidents or, and nobody else can drive it without a timely fix-it job.
3b3. Rookie/Novice Qualifier Race: New in 2007, Rookies with 0-10 races under their belts must compete in a rookie/novice qualifying event until they can prove that they can race safely under the green light conditions and not cause cautions. If you are involved with 2 cautions then you will be watched closely by veterans and track officials, and if you are involved with 3 cautions then you are disqualified and cannot enter the feature race. This is the only thing we can do to keep the races going smoothly and in a safe and timely manner. If you got less than 10 racing laps in and you did not break a kart, then you may get some practice racing in AFTER the feature if Matt and/or Chris allow it. Otherwise, no.
Chapter 8: Scoring & Handicapping
10-lap race is heat. All others are “Feature Events”. Classic is 130-laps (as of 2005) and 200-laps (as of 2007).
In Feature events, bonus points are awarded as follows:
1st place = 1.0 point per lap
2nd place = 0.5 point per lap
3rd place = 0.5 point per lap
(3rd place awarded points with 11+ karts only. More will be rewarded if over 20 karts.)
Annual Galletta’s Klassic had never had awarded points for laps-led until 2006-and-up.
Regular season races start in handicapped order (Usually inverted from points per race, with experienced low point-earners in front, high-points earners/race winners in back and beginners in the very back until they both earn enough points to register in the PPR standings and also prove they can race without wrecking). We have annual point series found all over this website. We also have All-Time Point/Win totals. Our ALL-TIME GALLETTA’S TRACK POINTS LIST is here. Our ALL-TIME OSWEGO KARTWAY POINTS list is here.
3c. Points system: The track officials record your position and have a points system that rewards drivers points for final position in heats, final positions in features, feature laps led, and feature laps in 2nd/3rd place. The more laps a race is, the more final points are rewarded (chart on the page). At the end of the season, a season champion is declared. Signing on the signing sheet means that you agree to all of the rules, including allowing your name in the point standings on the website. If drivers wish to enter a points fund for cash prizes, they must be up on all rental fees, come to a clear majority of the events, and pay into the points fund. 50/50 tickets also go into the points fund, but when renters don’t pay, repair fees come out of the points fund, so don’t screw yourself and pay up your rental fees.
3d. Starting order / Handicap rules: Each race (except Klassic) is handicapped as inverted by points-per-event and features won. This means that low-points-per-race veterans (includes experienced rookies) in the front, high-points-per-race & feature-winning veterans in the back, and inexperienced rookies (AKA rookies with generally under 5-10 features experience in the kart or a tendency to spin or wreck into other karts) in the very back behind them all until they prove themselves stable enough drivers to warrant starting in the front (meaning that they have proven that they can race in traffic and not wreck into other karts with the entire field coming, which can at least be highly annoying and at worst… exceedingly dangerous). Also, a 2nd twin-30 is handicapped via inverting the results of the first feature, minus drivers who have not won in front.
The handicap start for regular season races goes via groups:
[VETERAN GROUP – Drivers who have entered at least 3 Galletta’s Veteran features and finished at least 1.]
[A] Drivers who have never won a (club/track) feature ever, inverted by points-per-race.
[B] Drivers who have not won a feature in current season, inverted by points-per-race.
[C] Drivers who won a feature in current season, inverted first by (a) wins this season and secondly by (b) points-per-race.
[D] Drivers who have not yet raced in current season, but have won a feature in past seasons, inverted first by (a) all-time wins and secondly by (b) points-per-race.
[NOVICE GROUP – Drivers who have entered less than 3 Galletta’s Veteran Features and finished less than 1]
[D] Drivers who have raced in less than two features, inverted by (a) weight, (b) experience, or (c) coin flip.
Note A: Klassic 200 Race does not use a handicap system, it starts via best of two time-trials before the event.
Note B: The 2nd of a Twin-30 Race will start inverted from the finish of the 1st feature, but with winless drivers inverted in the front.
Note C: Novice Rookies must prove themselves to the veterans to be allowed to start with handicap starts. This usually means (a) ability to race clean lines and not cut off or wreck other drivers and (b) not spin out, break or wreck constantly. They are also under a ‘3-cautions-in-one-race-and-you’re-out’ rule in this period as well. Once they race 1-3 features and prove themselves as safe and competitive drivers to all active drivers, they are allowed into the regular handicapping start system. Prior experience helps, but it is usually 1-3 features before a newbie qualifies to run normally. Don’t throw temper tantrums and race calmly and have fun. These things all help your progress and veteran driver’s willingness to accept you as a safe and competitive driver to race with us every week (which we all want!).
3e. RACE START/RESTART RULES: Each race starts single-file (again, based on inverted points-per-race/wins handicapping), as do restarts (based on last-completed-lap). [Exceptions are the Annual Klassic Race, where time-trails decide the starting lineup, and the opening lap is traditionally 2-wide (on our track; outside is pole, inside is 2nd), though all restarts to any race are single-file]. The race begins with the lineup in-order on the front or back stretch. The field stays in single file via caution until the leaders round the 4th turn and come down the front stretch. The flagman/woman then gives the green when all of the karts are in line and the leader passes the garden zone. However, NO PASSING IS ALLOWED until the leader leaves corner 4 and enters the front straightaway, The Start/Finish Line, our old “can’t pass until” line, is parallel to the flagman and lap counter next to the 1st Willow tree. If anybody passes any contending (lead lap) kart before the leader crosses the start/finish line, the caution must be thrown and they will be sent to the back. Under certain circumstances, a driver is allowed his position back with a warning, but in general this is ONLY for rookie drivers who didn’t actually know the rule or the starter set an unusually slow pace.
A snapshot from our 12th Annual Galletta’s Go-Kart Klassic Championship in 2007!
3f. Restart rules: The restart positions must go to the last completed lap (the last lap under green that the non-wrecked drivers completed) with the wrecked/spun karts in the rear (unless the position on the last completed lap was a tie, then they may start side-by-side as they were on the said completed lap). The karts that actually caused the accident will go to the very back, the karts that got caught in their aftermath ahead, and karts that got through unscathed (touched no wrecked/spun kart or come to a complete stop without hitting a wrecked/spun kart) in front. The last completed lap rule is sometimes (and rarely) overridden to the start/finish line in occasional cases where a single, inexperienced rookie driver in last place spins out in a turn and the track is clear TO the start/finish line, and the caution will occur the second you cross it. However, if the accident/spin is ahead of any kart, and the potential of hitting that spun-out/wrecked kart exists, then the caution is final, the restart order is the same as the last completed lap (LCL), and you cannot advance a position gained on the caution lap, unless the passed driver concedes that he was clearly slower and passed before the caution came out (which is a courtesy pass; but the passed driver has the right to ask for his LCL position back). In most instances, the order is the last completed lap unless a flag man explicitly signals that it is clear to the start/finish line (this occasionally happens when there are too many silly and unforced cautions [AKA; usually rookie spinouts] in an event). On restarts, lapped traffic should go to the very rear, except Classic, where for the 1st 100 laps, they will be kept in line and after lap 100, they will be again placed in the rear.
3gV1. Breakdown/Courtesy repair/Change karts rule (2007-up Version): From now on, we no longer halt the racing to fix one man’s kart. If your kart is broken and takes more than a few minutes to fix (around 1-4 courtesy minutes), then you cannot halt the racing action to fix your kart unless you call a timeout. Each driver in the weekly action has a limited amount of timeouts PER YEAR (2 per year, and 1 for Klassic Race. You may carry regular season timeouts over to Klassic) and once they are used, then you cannot stop the race to wait for you to be fixed. If your kart breaks and a backup is available, you may use it (only if you own it or paid for it), otherwise we will not stop the race for you. You may fix your kart and re-enter the race blending safely with traffic after you are fixed, but you will be laps down (however many completed green flag laps you were out).
3g2: The “Change to a backup Kart after the starting Kart Broke” Rule: At Galletta’s, we have always tried to keep as many drivers in our events as possible. So, in addition to allowing some break repair time (each driver has a limited amount of “repair timeouts”), if there are extra karts available then a driver may hop into an unused kart, and re-enter the race at the rear of the field. If two people dispute over an unused kart, it is determined via: (1) Kart Ownership, (2) rental money paid to kart owner, (3) Driver’s place in the Points Standings, (4) Heat Qualification or Time-Trial Speed. As of 7/2007, we now dock points when drivers change karts. The penalty will be -10 points. Also, as of 2006, there will no longer be drivers replacing other active drivers from their karts via points seniority, unless the driver is renting a kart and is being a hazard to himself and to others.
4. No alcohol or illegal drugs: No driver will be allowed to drink an alcoholic beverage before or during the race. If you are intoxicated, you will not be allowed to race and may also be asked to leave. If you are noticeably and publicly drunk or high at any time (driver or spectator), you will be asked to leave, so please do not drink or get stoned on our property. Absolutely NO illegal substances are allowed on our property at any time for any reason, and if found, we will (A) not be held responsible, (B) you will be asked to leave the premises, and (C) the police will be contacted if you do not leave in a timely manner. Galletta’s is first and foremost, a respected Greenhouse, and secondly a friends-and-family karting club. Therefore, we cannot have any illegal drugs on our property. The racing is just for fun amongst friends and hopefully make some new friends while we’re at it. Its not for partying, money, fighting, and all this other garbage that some people think it is. If you break any laws on our property, you will be asked to leave and/or reported to the proper authorities. The owners do not drink and do not use drugs (and don’t have to tolerate it on their property), and nor should the visiting drivers.
5. Refunds on Rentals: The kart rental donation money goes directly back into the kart; the wear and tear, the damage, the gas, and the maintenance time. Discounted rentals can be arranged multiple ways: If you help do work on the track or karts for a suitable amount of time (which is up to Matt), you pay for your own parts (replace any broken/worn parts, buy your own tires, motor, parts). Rental kart fee is non-refundable if you race and break a part on the kart. However, if simply you didn’t get to race (under 10 green flag laps, which includes practice, heats, features, and cautions that you caused) you can use another backup/rental kart (with kart owner’s permission). However, if no backup karts are available (which is rare), you may get additional laps after the main event race, or have a reduced (or free) rental the following week. This is all dependent on the amount of kart damage, how much work you did helping out, how many green-flag laps you completed, amount of parts/gas/motors that you added to the kart, and only Matt can say how much, backed by Chris, Wes, and Mary Stevens; nobody else. No refunds unless (1) you race less than 10 laps – which includes practice laps, heat laps, feature laps, and your cautions [that you caused] included, (2) cause absolutely no damage to the karts or track, (3) caused less than 2 cautions (0 or 1), AND (4) were at absolutely zero fault for the kart not running properly (Meaning: Kart does not run, will not run for even Matt or Chris, and the reason that it won’t run is absolutely not your fault; this usually is not the case, as most of the time a cold kart will stall only on the inexperienced drivers who stomp on the gas and let off it too hard; solve this by babying the gas gently, keep it slightly gassed when idle, and don’t stomp too fast. Stalling usually subsides when the engine is warm and usually only occurs with a combination of cold engines and lead feet who get on it and get off it too fast, though rare exceptions exist [clogged carb, faulty kill switch, loose throttle, ect. – mostly corrected by Matt before or during the race]. These karts are more delicate than most people realize, especially rookie renters who usually trash them). So, when you pay your kart rental, you pay it mostly as a usage fee, and it cannot be refunded if you break any substantial part on a kart. That money is how the broken parts get replaced/repaired.
5b. Why are we charged rent/entrance donation fees at all? If you cannot afford these fees, you will not be allowed to race. If you can only afford a partial fee, you may only run a heat or a partial feature. We are now forced to be stricter with the fees due to drivers not paying full, not paying back dues, and drivers breaking the karts and never replacing broken parts. The rental has rarely covered the cost of replacement parts, and nobody makes any even one cent of profit from the rental fees, so please stop asking for reduced rentals unless you are doing work on the track or paying for replacement parts and/or gas. If you cannot afford to race, then just watch and allow the ride to someone who can pay to race. We do this for fun, we supply our own team karts for people to race with, and there is no fun when nobody pays for the parts they broke and the gas they burn.
6. Age and physical strength limits: Although we are a recreational track, but we do not allow drivers under a certain weight/strength/age to participate because we are running a points race and a friendly points wager amongst friends and family members AND in the past, people have been hurt (though none seriously). The karts are fast, the track is physically demanding, the actual racing is grueling. Under these circumstances, small children and women unaccustomed to the demands of racing may be accident-prone and there is a potential for injury. It is much more physically taxing than it looks, and you can get hurt, especially if you flip your kart. Women, older men, and children are especially vulnerable to injury, and property owners ONLY allow qualified, experienced drivers. Newcomers are welcome to join us and race in “Rookie/Novice Races” until they seem to get the hang of things, then they may enter our regular races. If you cannot lift more than at least 30-50lbs, are too short to reach the pedals, and/or can’t afford rental fees, then you cannot drive our karts. As a general rule, we tend to allow mostly people 18-and-over, though we do allow some teenagers can race if they prove that they can handle the kart well AND their parents attend, approve of the racing, and sign the waiver sheet for them (and even then, if they prove to not be physically and mentally competent to race, and are a hazard to themselves or others, they will not be allowed to race any more). If they prove they can handle the kart, they can qualify in. It is more physically demanding than it looks. Children and younger (smaller) teens absolutely CANNOT race and older teens can only race if they have their parent/legal guardian’s ABSOLUTE approval, in addition to the property OWNER’S approval
Visually, the worst wreck at Galletta’s caught on tape.
Serious adult racers, 18-and-up (or 16-17 with parental attendance and approval), and drivers license only. Nobody unless they have proper with safety equipment ONLY. You race at your own risk. Though safe enough to have hundreds of drivers racing thousands of laps for over two decades and no serious injuries, you can, however unlikely, get hurt. We make the karts and track safer every year, but you must take great care: SAFETY FIRST!!
6b. Rookie/novice/teenager/incompetent/reckless/incompetent/inexperienced driver rule: At the end of the 2006 season, we have noticed a continuous problem with a small amount of people every year coming to rent karts once or twice, demolishing them (or their negligence leading to damaging others), and demanding their money back and never race again. We will no longer be renting our rental karts to anybody under 18 unless their parent has watched, inspected, signed the waiver sheet and agreed to allow them to race, and people who are (well… for lack of a better term,) generally incompetent and cannot keep a kart running, cannot keep it going on the track, or spinout/wreck continuously, will lose their ride and will not get a refund. We’ve let too many people demolish our own karts on our own property and then request that we pay for the parts they demolished. No more. This track is race at your own risk, and if you cannot race without being a hazard to yourself, the karts, and to others, you cannot be allowed to race at all because of the money, time, and potential health and legal repercussions from this. The racing is generally safe until and incompetent driver makes a mess wrecking and arguing. Also, you can’t leave the race on your own accord and request a refund the next day unless you raced less than 10 laps (total, not just green feature laps) and caused absolutely no damage to any kart. And one last thing that seems very simple, but it fails to be grasped by certain people… If you are here looking for trouble, look elsewhere. We only race for fun, and don’t need troublemakers. If we sense you are on the track or using any kart to try and hurt yourself or others, or intentionally smash karts and property, you will be asked to leave. These are NOT bumper carts and this is NOT a place of business. It is recreational, for-fun, non-profit racing ONLY, and only between friends and family and to make new friends having friendly races. DO NOT ask for your money back after being grossly negligent and causing wrecks that cost people a lot of time and money and potentially injuries. When you ask for a $15-17 rental fee back when you demolished a $50 rim, blew a $30 tire, wrenched a $5 axle, and/or burnt $10-20 of gas on top of that… you look like an ass, ok? Thank you. I mean, this is really simple, and s small amount of people seem really dumb because they ask anyway. In particular are the two nimrods that forced us to call the sheriff after they intentionally tried to break karts and hurt people. We will press changes against anybody who ever tries to do that on our property again.
7. Videotaping: Almost every race has been videotaped since 2005 (and several since 1998 before that – including all big shows), and a DVD is available of any race (and all DVDs have 1-4 races per DVD, and often more than one camera perspective) for $5 each disc. I can also make covers for any DVD (since my profession and hobby is graphic artist), so ask me if you’d like some. If you want professionally printed covers and disc trays, it will be slightly more, though I can make them available for downloading and printing yourself. Visit our DVD Store.
7b. You are allowed to take photos or videotape the races at Galletta’s if you provide Chris with copies (for trade with our personal copies that we make ourselves). You will not be allowed to videotape the racing unless you provide Chris with a copy of the race. You are allowed to arrange a trade your copies for his copies of the race, but always ask first. We are also looking for copies to our Galletta’s and Oswego Speedway events, and will gladly trade copies of our Galletta’s home races for them (inquire). We will add YOUR videotape into the DVDs and provide you with a free copy. We reserve the right to copyright videos of the races on our property.
OUTDATED/FORMER ENGINE & KART SETUP RULES AND WHY WE WERE FORCED TO CHANGE FROM 100% BOX STOCK TO RACE-MODIFIED: Engine rules 1993-2004: Every go-kart entered in the Galletta’s Karting Speedway and points system from 1993-2004 was a 100% box-stock flathead (FH) 5-horsepower Briggs & Stratton motor that runs on gasoline; all racing parts and alterations were forbidden. All chassis are Single-Wheel Drive, clockwise-turning racing karts. 2005-up allowed hand shaved/milled heads (see below changes and controversy). No internal or external racing modifications, nor shaved heads. This changed forever after self-proclaimed “Outlaws” started showing up in mid-2004… The “Self-Proclaimed ‘Outlaws'” History Lesson
A.K.A. the Invasion of Unsportsmanlike Karters that disobeyed rules:
Engine rules between 2004-and-up
(forced upon us by visiting drivers & “away” track officials):
– …in mid-2004, one competitor brought an Overhead valve (OHV) 5.5hp Briggs & Stratton motor. On a trial basis only, we allowed it because the competitor was passionate about racing, had a heavy kart and was himself slightly heavier than some (but not all) of the other regular drivers. When the 5.5hp OHV motor immediately proved far too powerful for anybody in a stock 5hp to defeat (passing everybody easily and winning almost every race that it entered no matter the experience or weight of the other drivers), the motor wasn’t banned, but highly discouraged. The driver was invited back in a 5hp, but he declined. – The event was repeated in 2005, when the same driver and several others brought what was said to be 5.5hps, but most were 6.5hps (with stickers removed and lying by saying that they were 5.5hps), and for the most part, the drivers were all close in weight to guys with 5hps. On a trial basis (again), Galletta’s allowed it for the sake of having more passionate drivers. Most of the 6.5hps easily defeated the 5hps almost every race due to a noticeable power differential in the turns. The 6.5hp OHVs just had more power, which placed everyone in a 5hp at an extreme disadvantage, and only the most experienced in 5hps were able to barely compete. Several regular 5hp drivers left and never came back, saying, “You let those cheaters ruin a good thing.” This is when visiting driver’s “run-what-you-brung” rules were starting to alter the way our Galletta’s “Box stock 5hp” class was run, as Matt Stevens, for the first time ever, altered his own rules and started to shave (or mill) 5hp heads in order to compensate for the extra horsepower in the 6.5hps. When this happened, the more experienced drivers in 5hps started competing with the 6.5hps again. However, the 6.5hps came back every week with new tricks which made them completely illegal and our “equal equipment” rules and disrespectful to good sportsmanship and affordable racing. The motors were banned from racing 5hps, however were okayed to race in their own separate class or allowed to race with the others if they used 5hps. They declined both offers, fought with some volunteers and drivers, and never returned. On the world and national stage, the WKA rule committee came to the same conclusion that Galletta’s rule committee, and does not allow 5hp-type “Raptor” motors to be raced with 6.5hp-type “Animal” OHVs, which proved to back up our stance as well. – The problem of mixed motors, however, continued on Oswego Kartway between 2006-07, where track officials refuse to allow us separate classes, and force the two motors to race together or not at all, despite what the track rules say with all other divisions (motor classes, weight classes, and minimum 5 per class to run), which no matter how many hard feelings that the unequal engine dispute causes, and now many people have since stopped racing because of the dispute. – In 2007, Limited race cams (such as the Dyno 94-ss) were allowed for drivers over 200 lbs. only. The rule was invented by another visiting driver who weighed 200lbs.. – In 2008, Founder Matt Stevens instituted a limited brand of race cam (once just allowed for drivers over 200 lbs. in 2007 and early 2008) to compete with 6.5hps after Oswego track official Jim Losurdo refused to allow us our own class, told us to screw everybody else and make ours faster, and 6.5hps again started to make upgrades, including Animal takeout parts and fuel additives. The argument toward mixing these motors has proven to be irrational and every active and former regular member of the above Galletta’s roster (with the exception of the ones who have 6.5hps) disagrees with an outside force discriminating against our class and meddling with our rules, which has forever altered our once fun and friendly racing forever towards bickering, frustration and anger, which has lost us many drivers and has made us look bad for defending our unique brand of SWD gas stocker karting. Now the Oswego track officials are making a box stock class after forcing us to not be box stock, and censor us. – New rules/suggestions for 2009: A minimum weight rule will be re-instituted for the 2009 season to help heavier drivers to compete. It will be the medium of all active drivers and set before the season’s start. It will be adjusted with majority vote. Stock, Dyno 94-SS, & 98-3 cams are allowed, unless a majority of regular drivers votes to go back to 100% stock cams (and we will re-ban race cams if this is the case). No Galletta’s-class 1WD 5hp will race with an “Outlaw” style motor (AKA a 6.5hp OHV kart with undisclosed racing “Animal” modifications), no matter any weight rules intended to equalize the power differential because it has been tried (2004-08) and cannot work. It has been utterly proven that an OHV can tolerate more load and not lose much power, while a 5hp flathead cannot without full racing enhancements, which utterly betrays the original intent of our carting class’s creation, and disgruntles the drivers with smaller motors. 5hp flatheads are no longer in production, but can easily be found in garages and on eBay for anywhere between $20-$175, and all active Galletta’s karters have them. If and when 5hp flatheads cannot be purchased and repaired affordably, we will then go to OHV motors (which probably will not be for several years yet). They are two different motors and make two perfectly good different race classes. Period. Allowed Motors: 5 horsepower Briggs and Stratton Flathead Motors with 100% stock parts to start between 1990-2004 (changes allowed since: 2005-up = shaved heads, 2008-up = Select Approved Dyno cams). 1990s-updated carb-style mandatory; shaved heads and race rods/nylon dippers or Raptor Rods allowed. Sample Pictures: Note: These are three 100% stock motors (one was brand new out of the box, the others was rarely used and/or refurbished) and both were extremely fast after Matt gave them a tune-up. They all time-trialed fast and won races. The lesson is, the excuse that “Briggs discontinued these motors so I can’t buy them anymore” is nonsense, as you can get them used easily. And used motors can be just as fast as new ones, often faster. Just come to Matt and he’ll set it up for a small fee (he will shave the head and tune them exactly the same as all 11 of our karts). The small fee will be worth the fun. If you don’t already have one, Chris will buy a motor for you off of ebay (if you give him at least a down payment in advance). We can usually get them in the $20-200 range depending on the condition, often averaging around $100-130. Matt will then do the modifications for an additional fee (varies on amount of work done). Matt will often help regular drivers for free. Banned Parts: – Since installing race cams in mid-2008, we now allow Raptor parts. Prior to 2008, all Raptor parts (except for Raptor III rods) and equivalent expensive after-market racing counterparts used to be illegal under Galletta’s rules from 1995-2008 when our engine rules are meant to be ?box stock.? Racing on a local pay track between 2006-2008 that ignored our rule package and forced us to “upgrade or else” changed that. However, our class is still meant to be economically affordable for those who are looking to have fun racing good drivers without spending all their spare income. do consider that if you want to pour thousands of dollars into your engine and think that is lame that we race the way we do for bottom dollar, then there are plenty of karting classes for you for you to blow your money on. Our #1 rule is to go as fast as we can as affordably as we can. We succeed at that, and believe nobody does it better for equal or lesser cost.
If you don’t have a motor like above, the Galletta’s Karting Club can help find you one (the usual cost within the $100-200 range on eBay in most cases), and assist in setting it up exactly like all other Galletta’s kart motors. Matt also can do a Galletta’s refresh and tune-up (price dependant on parts and labor; see him). Although Galletta’s won’t buy a motor for you, but we will help you find one. If you need help bidding and buying one on ebay, see Chris, but you must pay him within a day or two of the auction end. Why? Because we want more people to race against and we are not looking to make a buck off of this! If you absolutely cannot use a Briggs gas flathead 5hp, we are open to discussions about other types of flathead motors. However, we STRONGLY suggest Briggs because all of 12 our Galletta’s karts and all 3-5 visitors karts motors are 5hp FHs with equal modifications. They are cheap and easy to fix. Matt will assist you on all motors. He will also assist in stagger and all kart setups. In the future, if and when 5hp flathead gas stock motors become too costly or rare to acquire and maintain, then the club will examine ALL other types of motors and vote on the most affordable, durable, equal motor. Different motors can be tried on a trial basis, but we feel that a 5hp Briggs is the cheapest and easiest to maintain and all of our karts have them. However, due to a long and exhaustive trial basis, we have determined that overhead valve 6.5hp-appearing motors have a wider power band and are geared differently. So different gears worked better for their more powerful low end torque motors. We can’t duplicate what they do and vice versa. That’s why none of our guys want to race them. Too much trouble keeping them equal and everybody getting all mad (see below for more details about the “Overhead Valve Outlaws). ALL motors MUST be equal and/or approved by ALL ACTIVE regular drivers. This is rule #1 of the Galletta’s Karting Club.
Some unwritten rules, evident to most racing tracks, including basic flag rules, are not listed here, but may be added later if not understood or requested. Check from time to time for updates.
THESE ARE THE BASIC RULES. Rules are subject to change or be added if issues come up. If you have a new idea, it must be shown, explained, and approved to all other active Galletta’s Kart Club regular drivers and Kart Owners. Why? Because our class is NOT about getting a leg up and a new secret to hold over the rest of the class. Or a motor that just has way more horsepower or money into it than the next guy. That stuff – which makes other racing classes highly expensive and makes fights break out – is banned. Our class is about friends and family with equal motors/equal parts racing purely for fun, and ONLY for bragging points in our points standings. We make new friends all of the time doing it this way, and only guys who tried cheating ever had anything bad to say about us. If you’re out for bloodthirsty, throat-cutting, ‘wrecking-some-a-hole-up-because-u-hate-him’, then this class is not for you. Try another. If you want friendly fun racing, then join the always expanding club. This class is for you.
Our FORMER “Away” track, Oswego Speedway’s little dirt track out back. This Spring 2006 Google Earth picture, however, was taken when the dirt track was in its beginning stages. Oswego Kartway has different rules than our Galletta’s track, though gas, stock motors (6.5hp max, 5hp preferred for anybody under 200 lbs.), and slicks are the basics for our division. Found here, hey also have T1 or WKA-style methanol karts, including champ karts. Our complete history at the Kartway:
SHOUT OUT TO “FLOWERS“: An odd touch-hole who spends a great deal of time on a message-board whining about how religion is the scourge of society and generally acting like an air-headed dolt who annoys people. Thanks for scoring hits for this page, though it makes no sense why you did so, since you are a total stranger and I’ve never met you before I saw you sarcastically link to this page. And people who write foolish, silly, ‘trying-too-hard-to-be-funny-but-being-unintentionally-funny-in-a-different-way’ scribes on gamer message boards all day shouldn’t use sarcasm. You aren’t as humorous and you think by half. Intentionally, at least. Thanks, tool!
Posted on March 25th, 2011 by ChrusherComix Studios
Galletta’s Backyard Go-Kart Speedway is a 0.133887 mile dirt oval with 20-degree banked turns. It is located behind Galletta’s Greenhouse in Oswego, NY, and can be seen from outer space! The single-wheel-drive gasoline-fueled flathead motor karts take the track between 15-17 seconds per lap which averages over 30 mph (approximately 45-50 mph top speed in the straights). Our speeds are comparable to alcohol/methanol-fueled karts that cost 8 times as much because we use mostly stock parts and gas on a large track; leading to more karts, more competition, and more fun. Our class is usually the largest and most competitive in the area. Thanks to Google Earth for this Spring 2006 photo. Our karting club’s home track is located in back of:
60 County Route 20
Oswego, NY 13126-6512
(315) 343-0879 or (315) 343-4281
Need directions? Here they are!
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